The two-floor bright and clean premises, with spring-green and grey paintwork, simple blond-wood tables and stools.
The menu of Afghan home cooking is: eight dishes (three meat, one fish, four vegetarian) of which the focus is hearty, warming stews that feature plenty of yoghurt and mint. Spicing is subtle rather than fiery. Moong dall is a comforting, thick, rich purée, while ‘Sarah’s’ combines chickpeas, kidney beans and chunks of potato in a yoghurty sauce. Meltingly soft aubergine and thick slices of orange pumpkin come drizzled in yet more yoghurt.
The best method is to come in a group, so you can share dishes. Sides include tangy pickles, plain rice and (in the evening) a communal loaf. Fresh-squeezed carrot juice and a few beers and wines are among the drink options, though dogh – watery, mint-inflected yoghurt – is the most refreshing choice. Bring cash as cards aren’t taken.
Address: 35 Islington Green, London N1 8DU
Tel: 020 7359 8019
- 35 Islington Green, London